I’ve only learnt surfing once. I didn’t make it standing up on the board. Yep. I was terrible. 

I spent lots of time on my belly, paddling with my arms, while waiting for the waves to come. I didn’t need my coach to tell me that my goal is to stay on the board as long as I’m able to. 

When the big waves finally came, it was the most exciting ten seconds of the whole round. Out of instinct, I gave myself — body and soul — to that precious ten seconds. I forgot everything else, only concentrated in that moment.

At the attempt to standing up, I fell down like an hero. Again and again.

In his book The Creative Act: A Way of Being, Rick Rubin writes: “Ride the wave as long as t can be ridden. If you are fortunate enough to experience the strike of inspiration, take full advantage of the access. Remain in the energy of this rarefied moment for as long as it lasts. When flowing, keep going.”

Getting into position by paddling with your arms non-stop, and waiting with patience and excitement are the preparation for the strike of the waves of inspiration. You will make sure when they come, you will give everything to make that ten seconds count — or however long you are able to ride your waves.